I've taken a few No's at plus or even money, and have been rewarded. As the first runs plus money have been few and far between, the who will score first is not a bad pick if you feel confident capping the pitching matchup.
I'd rather be playing D&D.
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I've taken a few No's at plus or even money, and have been rewarded. As the first runs plus money have been few and far between, the who will score first is not a bad pick if you feel confident capping the pitching matchup.
THE ACTION: WILL THERE BE A RUN SCORED IN THE 1ST INNING (YES OR NO).
Look at and understand the spreadsheet in sections. Choose a money
management style to focus on and don't worry about anything else on the
document.
First: You should understand the columns that list the date, start
times, and teams playing separated by AL and NL (I separated them
because I want data on both leagues going forward and have experimented
in the past with playing each separately.).
Second: The rest of the document is dedicated to tracking 5 different
money management styles (Martingale for both the +odds/Dog and
-Odds/Fav.; Labourche for both the +odds/Dog and -Odds/Fav, and three
others that just track the +odds/Dog).
The columns with the larger numbers in them are the cumulative totals/results for each money management strategy.
This martingale keeps going for 1 win/unit per day no matter how many
games there are, but starts over everyday. If there are 7 games in a
day and the martingale goes 0-7, you're in a world of hurt.
If there are 7 games in a day and you win 1, start over to win another unit as long as there are 3 games left to play/chase.
The Labourche (Labby) line starts at .5-.5-.5-.5 and crosses out the
first .5 and the last .5 if you win (1.0 unit win). If lose, it adds
your total wager loss to the end then you have to win that loss plus a
.5 or whatever number is on the left side of the line.
All money management styles except the martingale play every available
time slot even if both lines are -odds. Just take the lowest priced
play.
This document is only a guideline. You must customize your unit value, play method and limits, and money management style.
This strategy is a documented experiment. Good Luck.
0
THE ACTION: WILL THERE BE A RUN SCORED IN THE 1ST INNING (YES OR NO).
Look at and understand the spreadsheet in sections. Choose a money
management style to focus on and don't worry about anything else on the
document.
First: You should understand the columns that list the date, start
times, and teams playing separated by AL and NL (I separated them
because I want data on both leagues going forward and have experimented
in the past with playing each separately.).
Second: The rest of the document is dedicated to tracking 5 different
money management styles (Martingale for both the +odds/Dog and
-Odds/Fav.; Labourche for both the +odds/Dog and -Odds/Fav, and three
others that just track the +odds/Dog).
The columns with the larger numbers in them are the cumulative totals/results for each money management strategy.
This martingale keeps going for 1 win/unit per day no matter how many
games there are, but starts over everyday. If there are 7 games in a
day and the martingale goes 0-7, you're in a world of hurt.
If there are 7 games in a day and you win 1, start over to win another unit as long as there are 3 games left to play/chase.
The Labourche (Labby) line starts at .5-.5-.5-.5 and crosses out the
first .5 and the last .5 if you win (1.0 unit win). If lose, it adds
your total wager loss to the end then you have to win that loss plus a
.5 or whatever number is on the left side of the line.
All money management styles except the martingale play every available
time slot even if both lines are -odds. Just take the lowest priced
play.
This document is only a guideline. You must customize your unit value, play method and limits, and money management style.
This strategy is a documented experiment. Good Luck.
Det/Tor was not highlighted. so i dont think it would be a play. My first day too......... the lad/pit and sd/mil weere plays as they were highlighted in yellow and both won.
@ Smitler. Have you seen the effectiveness of this chase if done continuously and not just on a day to day bases. For example, lets say g1 W, g2 L, g3 W and there was still 1/2 more game(s) for the day. Why not carry over the remaining game(s) and combine it into one chase with the next day?
0
Det/Tor was not highlighted. so i dont think it would be a play. My first day too......... the lad/pit and sd/mil weere plays as they were highlighted in yellow and both won.
@ Smitler. Have you seen the effectiveness of this chase if done continuously and not just on a day to day bases. For example, lets say g1 W, g2 L, g3 W and there was still 1/2 more game(s) for the day. Why not carry over the remaining game(s) and combine it into one chase with the next day?
Det/Tor was not highlighted. so i dont think it would be a play. My first day too......... the lad/pit and sd/mil weere plays as they were highlighted in yellow and both won.
@ Smitler. Have you seen the effectiveness of this chase if done continuously and not just on a day to day bases. For example, lets say g1 W, g2 L, g3 W and there was still 1/2 more game(s) for the day. Why not carry over the remaining game(s) and combine it into one chase with the next day?
So far it would be a 16 unit difference as the +odds/dog has lost just once this season and it cost 15 units. The first game the next day won. As far as the -odds/fav there have been 2 or 3 losses this season. I would have to go back and see what happened the following days.
It can be done if you have the balls to do it.
0
Quote Originally Posted by Air1:
Det/Tor was not highlighted. so i dont think it would be a play. My first day too......... the lad/pit and sd/mil weere plays as they were highlighted in yellow and both won.
@ Smitler. Have you seen the effectiveness of this chase if done continuously and not just on a day to day bases. For example, lets say g1 W, g2 L, g3 W and there was still 1/2 more game(s) for the day. Why not carry over the remaining game(s) and combine it into one chase with the next day?
So far it would be a 16 unit difference as the +odds/dog has lost just once this season and it cost 15 units. The first game the next day won. As far as the -odds/fav there have been 2 or 3 losses this season. I would have to go back and see what happened the following days.
Det/Tor was not highlighted. so i dont think it would be a play. My first day too......... the lad/pit and sd/mil weere plays as they were highlighted in yellow and both won.
@ Smitler. Have you seen the effectiveness of this chase if done continuously and not just on a day to day bases. For example, lets say g1 W, g2 L, g3 W and there was still 1/2 more game(s) for the day. Why not carry over the remaining game(s) and combine it into one chase with the next day?
Air1, you play the highest price dog on the yes for a particular time slot. Chase on later games at plus money. IF I read the basic premise correctly. Since the early games were split even at +105, I took both. Since both cashed I called it quits for the night. System won. On to the next day...
I'd rather be playing D&D.
0
Quote Originally Posted by Air1:
Det/Tor was not highlighted. so i dont think it would be a play. My first day too......... the lad/pit and sd/mil weere plays as they were highlighted in yellow and both won.
@ Smitler. Have you seen the effectiveness of this chase if done continuously and not just on a day to day bases. For example, lets say g1 W, g2 L, g3 W and there was still 1/2 more game(s) for the day. Why not carry over the remaining game(s) and combine it into one chase with the next day?
Air1, you play the highest price dog on the yes for a particular time slot. Chase on later games at plus money. IF I read the basic premise correctly. Since the early games were split even at +105, I took both. Since both cashed I called it quits for the night. System won. On to the next day...
Just a quick question you have 2 games underlined for 7pm, I wonder wich one to play?
Thanks again and GL
The play in Yellow is the system play. Any green plays represent side plays where an arbitrage opportunity exists (+odds higher than -odds). As you can see sometimes they are both yellow and green.
So i am playing phi/fla as a system play and also a side bet
Yes_+135_490 to win 661.50 and No_-130_650 to win 500
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Quote Originally Posted by grecycle99:
Thanks for the great work smitler.
Just a quick question you have 2 games underlined for 7pm, I wonder wich one to play?
Thanks again and GL
The play in Yellow is the system play. Any green plays represent side plays where an arbitrage opportunity exists (+odds higher than -odds). As you can see sometimes they are both yellow and green.
So i am playing phi/fla as a system play and also a side bet
Yes_+135_490 to win 661.50 and No_-130_650 to win 500
Yes I made $36.80 Risk Free on the kcr/nyy inning, and $11.50 on the phi/fla inning. It didn't matter what the result was I won $ since the +odds were higher than the -odds.
The problem is $500 max prop bets.
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Quote Originally Posted by grecycle99:
OK Thanks,
Do you play the yankees game too?
GL
Yes I made $36.80 Risk Free on the kcr/nyy inning, and $11.50 on the phi/fla inning. It didn't matter what the result was I won $ since the +odds were higher than the -odds.
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